Seems like half of the little dark ones (Brunellos) I try these days are waxed-chest, plucked brow, metrosexual liquid robots. When the masculine side of ungabunga is worried about polished earth and “unflawed” dimensions, I have a tendency to see only flaws.

I recently spoke with Dieter Kamm, of Banville & Jones (an importer I truly dig), and he has seen a return to the earth with Brunello and Italy in general. A retreat from the single-dimensions, Int’l style. There may be a time and place for all styles, but I would like to taste what each locality can do. If I wanted the one-dimension side of sangiovese, I’d wear a wax paper suit with aluminum foil gloves and drink out of a used dentist office Dixie cup at an Il Bastardo vertical tasting. I’d prefer that my Brunello wear liquid “poop kickers” (Texan euphemism) with structured claws! I want my Brunello to be densely concentrated and muscular, but with not so much flabby bulk. One of the beautiful things about Brunello is that the winery does some of the cellaring for you (Rioja, anyone?) and with the somewhat-new reduction of wood-aging, these wines have become much more approachable earlier.

Chateau Mooney. Blind Tasting.

Group’s preference.

1. ‘01 Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello (Kathleen Battle) 091107

2. ‘01 Angelini Val di Suga Brunello (Beverly Sills’ Norma)

3. ‘01 Silvio Nardi Brunello (La Traviata)

4. ‘00 Selvaccia Brunello (Carmen)

5. ‘01 Angelini Val di Suga Brunello (Windgassen In Fernam land)

6. ‘98 Banfi Brunello (Pavoratti Nessun Dorma)

7. ‘01 Argiano Brunello (Scratched Beverly Norma)

7. ‘05 Bruno Porro Dolcetto Dogliani (Madame Butterfly)

7. ‘03 Planeta Segreta (Mario Lanza)

8. ‘97 Fontodi Chianti Classico (Dame Joan Southerland)

9. ‘01 Valdicava Brunello (Takawa)

10. ‘97 Argiano Brunello (Pavarotti)

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My preference. (prices/ratings coming-not done yet)

1. ‘01 Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello $96 (Kathleen Battle)

2. ‘97 Fontodi Chianti Classico $70 (Dame Joan Southerland)

3. ‘01 Valdicava Brunello $146 (Takawa)

4. ‘01 Silvio Nardi Brunello $59 (La Traviata)

5. ‘00 Selvaccia Brunello $46 (Carmen)

6. ‘01 Argiano Brunello $56 (Scratched Beverly Norma)

7. ‘01 Angelini Val di Suga Brunello $46 (Windgassen In Fernam land)

8. ‘01 Angelini Val di Suga Brunello $46 (Beverly Sills’ Norma)

9. ‘98 Banfi Brunello $65 (Pavoratti Nessun Dorma)

10. ‘05 Bruno Porro Dolcetto Dogliani $22 (Madame Butterfly)

11. ‘03 Planeta Segreta $19 (Mario Lanza)

12. ‘97 Argiano Brunello $84 (Pavarotti) corked